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Cake day: June 14th, 2023



  • bigredgiraffeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldNewbe adviceEnglish
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    3 months ago
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    Glad to help! Mixing colors shouldn’t be an issue, I have done it in the past, also have mixed PA and PA-CF in the past without issue. I bet you could even find a tent with a window and run a PTFE tube to a dry box outside the tent then you could pull the first color out and put the second one in without having to open the tent.

    Also, just to say it out loud I would definitely test the strength of the layer adhesion (especially between the colors since they might have different additives) for anything structural, especially if you might get injured if it fails, just to be double safe heh.

    Last, at least where I am, PA is significantly more expensive than ASA or PETG so might be worth looking at those for at least prototypes of the parts. For example, I typically use PLA to prototype ASA parts, has usually been fine to swap it out with just minor tolerance adjustments and it’s way cheaper to print 50 versions in PLA while I’m working out the design and then I print the final ones in ASA or whatever.


  • bigredgiraffeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldNewbe adviceEnglish
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    3 months ago
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    I have printed PA and tent idea will probably work but the other person is not kidding, PA is very finicky. Plan on printing PA directly from a dry box as even sitting on the printer will ruin a roll of it if you live somewhere with more than like 20% humidity outside, also make sure your dryer can reach 85c to dry out a spool of PA, even with a dry box I usually dry PA immediately before printing it. As others have mentioned, definitely consider ASA or PETG or maybe even PC (if that printer can print it) where you don’t really need the material properties of PA specifically.

    The tent will also probably be important for maintaining temperature of the chamber more than the smell, nylon doesn’t have a ton of odor anyway. You may need to put a blanket on it, you probably won’t need a chamber heater since nylon needs like a 65c bed or more, just make sure to pre-heat the chamber first by turning the bed on, I usually let mine warm for 20 min or more. It is alap important to keep the temps stable as nylon also warps easily which can cause it to pop off the bed while printing too So make sure the tent is sealed and try not to open it.

    Sounds like an interesting project though, best of luck!



  • bigredgiraffetoSelfhosted@lemmy.worldWhich link/bookmark manger do you prefer, and why?English
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    5 months ago
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    5 months ago
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    +1 for Raindrop, that app is amazing, I keep watching for a self-hosted version/alternative that is as good and they are getting closer. The killer feature for me is being able to highlight stuff and then when you visit the site again you see what you have highlighted (in addition to saving them elsewhere). I also pay for premium because it’s great, I don’t use a ton of the pro features either.


  • So if I understand this right you will need to change the network on the port attached to the synology in your UniFi configuration or set the vlan tag in the synology OS, I would do the former. It sounds like you just added a second network/vlan to the existing interface which means you actually created a trunk and are getting the old network untagged and the new network with vlan tags which the synology is dropping. Synology OS also doesn’t really support trunked ports through the UI (even though it does support a port that only uses a vlan tag) so it’s much easier to just leave them untagged.




  • bigredgiraffetoProgramming@programming.devDatadog has a security footgun
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    6 months ago
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    6 months ago
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    I mean sure but that’s a lot of words to say “I didn’t read the directions and no one caught it in a merge request review because no one else read the directions either.

    Their documentation and examples are pretty easy to read and the site parameter is explained in the getting started guide and even linked from the readme for the JavaScript sdk, and in lots of sample configurations so I’m not sure how this made it into a release and then no one noticed the missing metrics for eleven days, sounds like lots of issues in that shop.

    The behavior of the sdk isn’t great but the proposed solution wouldn’t work because you can use custom endpoints for all of the components using endpoints on domains you own anyway.





  • bigredgiraffetoTechnology@lemmy.worldOpinion: It's Time To Ditch 2.4GHz WI-FIEnglish
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    8 months ago
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    Well 5ghz requires more power, has less range, and needs its own antenna so for microcontrollers this makes it pretty pointless for devices that need range and low bandwidth for sending sensor updates, especially those that are battery powered. 5ghz can also have its own issues in cities if you have a lot of use of the DFS bands as well as being worse at traversing reinforced concrete.

    Also, a 2.4ghz radio can also sometimes support other things like zigbee, BT, and BLE which can be used for other functions.

    For what it’s worth, I have probably 50 WiFi devices and the majority of them are 2.4ghz sensors or switches and other low bandwidth tasks and I don’t have any issues, even when living in an apartment complex. If you are having issues you might need different hardware or more access points or something.

    Anyway, all that to say that 2.4ghz definitely still has a lot of utility today.


  • bigredgiraffeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldHow do I fix these god-awful seams?English
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    8 months ago
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    So I stared at this for a while, particularly the pattern of the seam, I have a few questions. What type of infill are you using? how many outer wall loops? How much infill overlap (or whatever it is called)?

    Also what happens if you rotate the part on the bed 90 degrees so the seam is on a different axis? Or maybe 45 degrees? This will make sure it’s not some sort of mechanical issue in one direct that shows up in this specific situation.

    I know that all seems random but those are what I would check hah.


  • bigredgiraffeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldSometimes fewer walls are betterEnglish
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    8 months ago
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    I think what that person is saying is that in your example the left part would probably be more durable because it is flexible and that the part on the right is less durable but more rigid, basically saying your result is expected and makes sense if you are wanting durability over rigidity.

    I think that the part that is unclear is that OP is using durability, rigidity, and strength as they are defined by material science not in common English and they way they differ in definition makes that comment make sense. I’m not a material scientist though so I could be wrong.

    I hope that is correct and makes sense hah!


  • bigredgiraffeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldAny tip for printing TPU?English
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    8 months ago
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    Make sure your filament roller doesn’t have too much resistance as well. Since TPU stretches linearly way more than any other filament if it does have a lot of resistance then the extruder won’t be able to pull more filament until it overcomes that resistance and the stretch and it ends up physically thinning out the filament. Just a thought, hope it helps!


  • bigredgiraffeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBlobbing on outside walls Bambu PETG Basic, drying issue?English
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    9 months ago
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    9 months ago
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    I agree with the other poster, this is wild. It seems like It is limited to one axis so maybe it’s a slicer or printer bug. Does it do it if you print it out of PLA? PETG is cranky all around but I have never had it do something like that hah. Is this part online somewhere? I can try to slice it and see what happens on my x1, I’m curious now haha.

    ETA: you should also open a support ticket, they have great suggestions sometimes.